Cyclo Thugs of Hue

Our first day in Hue, we decided to walk from our hotel to the citadel, the old emperor’s castle. After crossing the moat bridge and entering the old walled city, the cyclo-cabs descended like crows surrounding carrion. Several followed us up the street, repeating the “one hour tour,” “very cheap” sales pitch as they pedaled [...]

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Tipping the Attendants

There are parking are parking attendants everywhere. We never end up with much change in our pockets at the end of the day. In some countries, every few days we have to back up a check stand line to sort through and spend the coins that come back to us in change. Here, we are [...]

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Two Red Eyes

They are all sleeping, I guess I should try to stay awake. We’re in Frankfurt, in the gap between two red-eye flights, both mid-afternoon and the wee hours of the morning. I slept a little on the flight, and am not completely wiped out, yet. John and the girls are draped over chairs, wilted.

Thankfully, we [...]

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Auto Longing

A car. We are longing for a car. Early on, we conceived of the idea that we should rely on public transportation for this trip. My Oma lived in Germany her whole life and never learned to drive. She could go anywhere she wanted to via public transportation. A short walk to the local train [...]

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The Weight of Our Belongings

The image of discarded furniture and belongings sitting on the side of a trail, wood warping in rain and sun fading fabrics always made me sad. I would picture people moving slowly across the country to Oregon, and becoming too weary under their load of belongings, perhaps due to the death of an ox or [...]

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Fog in the Valley

A fog has settled in the Meribel valley, and small flakes of snow hint of winter. Downstairs a little girl and her daddy just caught the ski bus up to Meribel center. She’s wearing her helmet with her favorite cover, the one with stuffed bone ends sticking out both sides. She calls herself “bonehead” [...]

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What a Drag…

September 25th, Paris. Our grand plan for this trip involves skiing. John has been feeling time watching from the periphery of his awareness, bringing aches to joints where there was none, pressing his heart through the loss of friends. His dream of spending a season skiing in the Alps before time eroded his strength or [...]

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