Skradinski Buk, Krka National Park

In Krka National Park, The streams relentlessly push against banks of travertine, stone holding fast in places dividing the current, and giving way in others, allowing the river to tumble downward. Where the rock holds, fig trees take root and flourish. Where the rocks tumble, so go the trees. As the river pushes its way over and through the stone, it braids, separating and reuniting, then gathering speed and plunging over cliffs, landing in froth and throwing spray into the air.

A boardwalk path twists its way over these braids of river at a falls called Skradinski Buk. I can’t think of anywhere I’ve been that brings you so close to this much open, raging hydraulics. This from a self proclaimed river rat; whitewater and river trips are a way of life for us. Our many boats and gear for indulging ourselves in running water were not touched in the purging process before we left on this around the world trip, as we were dumping other belongings. Here, in this Croatian National Park, the water pillows and ruptures into falling froth a few feet from the boardwalk where tourists stand and watch.

The boardwalk first brings you though the forest above the falls. The water rushes and slows in its myriad channels, many disappearing completely over a distinct edge as they drop away downstream. Only bridges over the fastest water has hand rails, only the wooden path itself separating you from the water. But, it is sturdy and well built, no bouncing or loose boards. Tour groups of senior citizens and school children holding the hand of their walking partner wander past, young and old both in awe.

The path leads to overlooks where the larger falls are showcased. Large DSLR cameras and cell phones are all out, recording each owner’s visit. From here the boardwalk path leads to a trail to the bottom, ending in an open space filled with children. A souvenir booth and ice cream / beverage stand offer treats, and a restaurant with umbrella covered tables waits for the hungry. On a footbridge that crosses here, everyone stops to take photos of their companions with the Skradinski Buk as backdrop.

People sit by the river, watching the largest of the waterfalls, the grand finale before the water settles into a peaceful river. We found some rocks in the trees to rest and gaze. Hannah had brought us here, enticed by photos of these waterfalls and people swimming in the pool that gathers below them. At first, she was embarrassed to be the only swimmer and decided not to make the plunge. When we started to leave, though, she knew she would regret the choice to not fulfill the vision. We cheered from the bank as she worked her way in for a quick dip in the cold water.

Across the footbridge, past an old hydroelectric project, stairs bring visitors to a large observation deck below the first set of falls and above the lower, another photo op. Past souvenir shops set up in old stone buildings including a water mill, and on to the bus stop where we catch the ride back to the car.